{"id":11329,"date":"2018-03-11T23:13:12","date_gmt":"2018-03-11T21:13:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/?p=11329"},"modified":"2018-05-09T14:10:53","modified_gmt":"2018-05-09T12:10:53","slug":"mini-etek-kim-buldu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/?p=11329","title":{"rendered":"Mini Etek kim buldu?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Mini ete\u011fi kim buldu, kim icat etti?<\/h2>\n

1960’l\u0131 y\u0131llar, politik devrim ve de\u011fi\u015fimlerin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u0131llar oldu. Apollo 11, Ay’a ini\u015f yapan ilk uzay arac\u0131 oldu, 1964’de \u0130nsan Haklar\u0131 Hareketi\u00a0yasas\u0131 kabul edildi, Vietnam Sava\u015f\u0131 \u015fiddetlendi. Beatles grubunun r\u00fczgar\u0131 Beatlemania, d\u00fcnyay\u0131 kas\u0131p kavuruyordu, do\u011fum kontrol haplar\u0131 pazara \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Gen\u00e7lik sosyal hayat \u00fczerinde resmen bir deprem tarat\u0131yordu. \u201cYouthquake\u201d (Gen\u00e7lik Depremi) ya\u015fam\u0131n bir\u00e7ok alan\u0131n\u0131 radikal bir \u015fekilde ele ge\u00e7irmi\u015fti. Bu dramatik, politik ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel de\u011fi\u015fimlerin ortas\u0131nda, \u00e7a\u011f\u0131n en kal\u0131c\u0131 ve tart\u0131\u015fmal\u0131 moda ikonlar\u0131ndan biri ortaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131: mini etek.<\/p>\n

Bu k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kuma\u015f par\u00e7as\u0131, antik \u00e7a\u011flardan beri \u015fa\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131 bir \u015fekilde, g\u00fc\u00e7 ve savunmas\u0131zl\u0131k, ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k ve ho\u015fa gitme iste\u011fi, kapatma ve \u00f6rtme, olgunluk ve maskaral\u0131k gibi en etkileyici paradokslar\u0131 somutla\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131. E\u015fzamanl\u0131 olarak hem k\u0131nan\u0131p hem de sevilen mini etek, bu karma\u015f\u0131k politik manzaran\u0131n tam ortas\u0131nda patlad\u0131.\u00a0Aniden Kad\u0131nlar\u0131n ve ve erkeklerin dikkatini y\u0131llarca gizlenmi\u015f olan \u015feylere, kad\u0131n\u0131n bacaklar\u0131na do\u011fru \u00e7ekti.<\/p>\n

Antik \u00e7a\u011fda, Ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7ta mini etek<\/h3>\n

\u00c7ok k\u0131sa etekler uzun s\u00fcredir var olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, 1960’lara kadar genellikle “mini” olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lmad\u0131lar.<\/p>\n

Arkeologlar Avrupa’n\u0131n en eski k\u00f6ylerinde, son zamanlarda yap\u0131lan kazz\u0131larda Vin\u010da k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne ait M.\u00d6 5400-4700 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda tarihlenen antik heykelcikleri ortaya \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131lar. Fig\u00fcrinler hakk\u0131nda dikkat \u00e7ekici olan \u015fey sadece onlar\u0131n ya\u015f\u0131 de\u011fil, ayn\u0131 zamanda kad\u0131n fig\u00fcrinlerin 1960’lar\u0131n moda mini eteklerin giymi\u015f gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcnmesiydi. Bu fig\u00fcrler \u201cantik mini eteklerin\u201d tek kan\u0131t\u0131 de\u011fildir. \u00d6rne\u011fin, eski bir M\u0131s\u0131r freskleri pamuktan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir \u201cmini etek\u201d giyen kad\u0131n akrobatik dans\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131 g\u00f6stermektedir.<\/p>\n

Bir mini ete\u011fe benzeyen en eski giysilerinden biri, \u0130skandinav Tun\u00e7 \u00c7a\u011f\u0131’nda (c. 1390\u20131370 BCE) g\u00f6m\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc tespt edilen Egtved K\u0131z taraf\u0131ndan giyilen bronz s\u00fcslemeli k\u0131sa y\u00fcn etektir.<\/p>\n

Kad\u0131nlar\u0131n d\u00fczenli olarak mini eteklere benzeyen k\u0131yafetler giydi\u011fi bilinen en eski k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerden biri, \u00c7in’deki Miao halk\u0131n\u0131n bir alt grubudur.<\/p>\n

1800’lerin ortalar\u0131nda, Avrupa ve Amerika’da, kad\u0131nlar\u0131n daha zay\u0131f ve daha savunmas\u0131z bir cinsiyet oldu\u011funa inan\u0131l\u0131yordu. Siyaset, i\u015f ve fiziksel aktivite kad\u0131nlar i\u00e7in tehlikeli g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyordu ve bu nedenle uzun eteklere sahip elbiseler ve s\u0131k\u0131 korseler giyiyorlard\u0131.<\/p>\n

Ancak, Birinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131’ndan sonra, kad\u0131nlar\u0131n \u00f6zg\u00fcrle\u015fmesi ve sava\u015f sonras\u0131 rahatlama, \u201cflapper\u201d (da\u011f\u0131n\u0131k sa\u00e7l\u0131 gen\u00e7 k\u0131z)\u00a0<\/span>)tarz\u0131n\u0131n yay\u0131lmas\u0131na\u00a0 yol a\u00e7m\u0131\u015f, etek boylar\u0131n\u0131 kad\u0131nlar\u0131n dizlerine kadar k\u0131saltm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. 1930’lar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda etek boylar\u0131 daha a\u015fa\u011f\u0131, bald\u0131rlara kadar inmi\u015ftir. \u0130kinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda zorunlu kuma\u015f tasarrufu nedeniyle tekrar yukar\u0131, dizlerin hemen alt\u0131na geri \u00e7ekilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

1960’lar ve Mini Etekler<\/h3>\n

Gen\u00e7ler Kendi Siyaset (ve Moda) Alan\u0131n\u0131 Olu\u015fturdular<\/h3>\n

1960’larda, gen\u00e7lik protestolar\u0131, bireysel d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnceleri ifade etme talepleri, gen\u00e7 yeti\u015fkinlerin kendilerinden beklenenin aksine politik olaylara yan\u0131t vermeye ba\u015flamas\u0131, gen\u00e7lerin farkl\u0131 ve birle\u015fik bir grup olarak kendileri hakk\u0131nda bilin\u00e7li bir fark\u0131ndal\u0131k kazand\u0131klar\u0131 ortaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. Gen\u00e7ler art\u0131k ikiy\u00fczl\u00fc burjuva ahlak\u0131na ve davran\u0131\u015f kurallar\u0131na uymayacaklar\u0131n\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k\u00e7a hissettirdiler. Gen\u00e7ler siyasi kimlik kazand\u0131k\u00e7a, ebeveynlerinin de\u011fil, kendi politik g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015flerini somutla\u015ft\u0131ran yeni ve kendilerine \u00f6zg\u00fc bir alan yaratt\u0131lar.<\/p>\n

1960’lardan \u00f6nce, gen\u00e7 kad\u0131nlar\u0131n, genellikle Haute couture’a (sipari\u015fle ki\u015fiye \u00f6zel dikilmi\u015f) dayanan annelerinin tarz\u0131yla giyinmeleri bekleniyordu. \u00d6rne\u011fin, 1962’nin sonlar\u0131na do\u011fru bir Sears katalo\u011fu, anneler ve k\u0131zlar\u0131n\u0131, ayn\u0131 elbiseleri giymekten \u00e7ok memnun oldukar\u0131n\u0131 betimlemi\u015fti. 1950’lerin sonlar\u0131na do\u011fru, \u0130ngiliz tasar\u0131mc\u0131 Sally Tuffin, \u201cO d\u00f6nemde gen\u00e7ler i\u00e7in hi\u00e7 k\u0131yafet yoktu. Her biri annelerine benziyordu \u201d demi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

1960’larda Feminizminin Bir \u0130fadesi ve Arac\u0131 Olarak Mini Etek<\/h3>\n

Feminizmin artan fark\u0131ndal\u0131\u011f\u0131, kad\u0131nlar i\u00e7in farkl\u0131 bir moda yolunu da a\u00e7t\u0131. \u00d6rne\u011fin, 1963’te, Amerikal\u0131 Betty Friedman, mutlu ev kad\u0131n\u0131 mitini y\u0131k\u0131c\u0131 ve kad\u0131nlar\u0131n di\u011fer rolleri ke\u015ffetme arzusunu ifade eden \u201cKad\u0131ns\u0131 Gizem\u201d i yay\u0131mlad\u0131. Ayr\u0131ca, 1960’l\u0131 y\u0131llar \u00fcniversitelere giden ve i\u015fg\u00fcc\u00fcne kat\u0131lan kad\u0131nlarda bir at\u0131\u015fa sahne oldu. \u00d6zellikle bir kad\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmak istedi\u011fi zaman ve yerde daha fazla esneklik sa\u011flayan Ge\u00e7ici \u0130\u015f\u00e7i stat\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fcn ortaya \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131 bunda \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli bir etki yapt\u0131.<\/p>\n

Bu on y\u0131l, hem evli hem de bo\u015fanm\u0131\u015f kad\u0131nlar\u0131n korunmas\u0131na ve g\u00fc\u00e7lendirilmesine yard\u0131mc\u0131 olan yasalar\u0131n meclislerden ge\u00e7ti\u011fi de g\u00f6r\u00fcld\u00fc. Belki de en \u00f6nemlisi do\u011fum kontrol hap\u0131n\u0131n ortaya \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131yd\u0131, bu gebelik korkular\u0131n\u0131 ortadan kald\u0131rd\u0131 ve cinsel devrime yard\u0131mc\u0131 oldu. Kad\u0131n\u0131n imaj\u0131, e\u015f ve anne olmaktan, cinselli\u011fi ile gurur duyan ve g\u00fcc\u00fcne g\u00fcvenen gen\u00e7, bekar ve kayg\u0131s\u0131z bir k\u0131za kaymaya ba\u015fl\u0131yordu. \u0130\u015fte Mini etek, ilerleyen zamanda bu b\u00fcy\u00fcyen kad\u0131n hareketini ifade edecek bir ara\u00e7 i\u015flevi g\u00f6recekti.<\/p>\n

Gen\u00e7 T\u00fcketici Yeni Bir S\u0131n\u0131f<\/h3>\n

Gen\u00e7 ku\u015fak ger\u00e7ekten de isyankard\u0131 ve d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncelerini kolay ifade ediyordu.\u00a0 Daha \u00f6nce sahip olduklar\u0131ndan daha fazla parayla sahip olmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015flard\u0131. Gen\u00e7ler aniden, ruhlar\u0131na uygun bir moda talep eden g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc bir t\u00fcketici s\u0131n\u0131f\u0131 haline geldi. Sonu\u00e7 olarak, moda sisteminin t\u00fcm yap\u0131s\u0131 sokaklardaki gen\u00e7li\u011fin taleplerine g\u00f6re de\u011fi\u015fmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. B\u00fcy\u00fck moda tasar\u0131mc\u0131lar\u0131 ve butikler, kendi istediklerini sat\u0131n alan yeni bir gen\u00e7lik pazar\u0131na ve k\u0131zlar\u0131na benzemeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan ya\u015fl\u0131 kad\u0131nlara hitap etmeye ba\u015flad\u0131.<\/p>\n

\u201cMini Ete\u011fin Annesi\u201d: Mary Quant<\/h3>\n

\"mary-quant\"<\/p>\n

Mary Quant 1960’larda mini etek devrimi ba\u015flatan kad\u0131n tasar\u0131mc\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Mary Quant isimli gen\u00e7 bir \u0130ngiliz tasar\u0131mc\u0131, 1955’te King\u2019s Road’da butik ma\u011fazas\u0131n\u0131 a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, kendisini moda devrimine \u00f6nc\u00fcl\u00fck etmeye haz\u0131rlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Modada ger\u00e7ek bir e\u011fitimi olmamas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, soka\u011f\u0131n g\u00fcndelik modas\u0131n\u0131n nabz\u0131n\u0131 tutan parmaklar\u0131yla, modada belirgin bir ayr\u0131kl\u0131\u011f\u0131 temsil etti. Paris moda evlerinin moda tarz\u0131yla hi\u00e7 ilgilenmedi ve zaman\u0131n gen\u00e7li\u011finin fikirlerini yans\u0131tan k\u0131yafetleri satmaya ba\u015flad\u0131.<\/p>\n

1965 y\u0131l\u0131nda etekleri dizden birka\u00e7 santim yukar\u0131 kald\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, ikonik mini etek do\u011fdu. En sevdi\u011fi araba olan Mini Cooper’dan etkilenerek satt\u0131\u011f\u0131 eteklere “Mini Skirt” ad\u0131n\u0131 verdi. Mini etek an\u0131nda ba\u015far\u0131y\u0131 yakalad\u0131 ve 60’l\u0131 y\u0131llar\u0131n ortalar\u0131nda Londra’n\u0131n ruhunu \u00f6zetliyordu: \u00f6zg\u00fcr, enerjik, gen\u00e7, devrimci ve al\u0131\u015f\u0131lmam\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u201cMini Ete\u011fin Lordu\u201d: Andr\u00e9 Courr\u00e8ges<\/h3>\n

\"Andre-Courreges\"<\/p>\n

Mary Quant muhtemelen, mini etek konusunda harekete ge\u00e7en ilk giri\u015fimciydi fakat ondan \u00e7ok daha cesur ve etkili biri vard\u0131. Bir Frans\u0131z tasar\u0131mc\u0131 olan Andr\u00e9 Courr\u00e8ges d\u00f6nemin ruhunu yakalad\u0131. \u0130ngiltere’nin (ve Amerika’n\u0131n) yeni modas\u0131n\u0131 Fransa’ya ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131. 1961’in ba\u015flar\u0131nda etek boylar\u0131yla denemeler yapmaya ba\u015flad\u0131ysa da, Courr\u00e8ges 1964’\u00fcn sonlar\u0131nda diz \u00fcst\u00fcn\u00fcn olduk\u00e7a \u00fczerinde f\u00fct\u00fcrist ve uzay-\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n\u0131 and\u0131ran minimalist k\u0131yafetlerini sergiledi. Andr\u00e9 Courr\u00e8ges moda d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131, Mary Quant dan \u00e7ok daha fazla sarst\u0131. Quant’dan farkl\u0131 olarak, eteklerini daha sofistike ve olgunlukla tasarlama e\u011filimindeydi; bu da mini ete\u011fin Frans\u0131z haute couture camias\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan kabul edilmesine yol a\u00e7t\u0131.<\/p>\n

Courr\u00e8ges daha sonra mini ete\u011fi icat etti\u011fini iddia etse de, Quant, \u201cBen ya da Courr\u00e8ges mini ete\u011fi icat etmedik, bunu yapan sokaktaki k\u0131zlard\u0131\u201d diyerek Courr\u00e8ges’a yan\u0131t verdi. Quant ve Courr\u00e8ges aras\u0131ndaki icat \u00f6nceli\u011fi konusundaki e\u011flenceli tart\u0131\u015fmalara ra\u011fmen bir\u00e7ok akademisyen meseleyi \u201cortadan kald\u0131rmaya\u201d e\u011filimli cevaplar vermektedir. Quant ve Courr\u00e8ges, hem daha \u00f6nceki moda evlerinin e\u011filimlerini benimsemi\u015f hem de \u00e7evrelerinde meydana gelen b\u00fcy\u00fck toplumsal de\u011fi\u015fimlerden yararlanm\u0131\u015flard\u0131r. De\u011ferlendirmeyi \u201cger\u00e7ekten icat eden kimdi\u201dye bak\u0131lmaks\u0131z\u0131n, hem Quant hem de Courr\u00e8ges, cesur etek boylar\u0131 ile moda d\u00fcnyas\u0131nda devrim yapm\u0131\u015f ve zenginle\u015ftirmi\u015ftir. O nedenle her ikisi de \u00f6vg\u00fcy\u00fc haketmektedir.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mini ete\u011fi kim buldu, kim icat etti? 1960’l\u0131 y\u0131llar, politik devrim ve de\u011fi\u015fimlerin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u0131llar oldu. Apollo 11, Ay’a ini\u015f yapan ilk uzay arac\u0131 oldu, 1964’de \u0130nsan Haklar\u0131 Hareketi\u00a0yasas\u0131 kabul…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":11337,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[16],"tags":[3131,3132,960],"class_list":["post-11329","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-moda","tag-etek","tag-mini-etek","tag-moda-2"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11329"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=11329"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11329\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11577,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11329\/revisions\/11577"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/11337"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=11329"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=11329"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=11329"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}