{"id":3205,"date":"2015-03-15T03:03:27","date_gmt":"2015-03-15T01:03:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/?p=3205"},"modified":"2015-03-15T03:28:02","modified_gmt":"2015-03-15T01:28:02","slug":"kravati-kim-buldu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/?p=3205","title":{"rendered":"Kravat\u0131 kim buldu"},"content":{"rendered":"

Kravat\u0131 kim buldu, Kravat\u0131 kim icat etti. Kravat, Papyon Kravat<\/strong> erkeklerin 350 y\u0131ll\u0131k, hatta kimi iddialara g\u00f6re 3.500 y\u0131ll\u0131k rakipsiz aksesuvar\u0131. \u0130nsanlar, \u00e7ok uzun zamanlardan beri, so\u011fuktan, kirden, terden korunmak i\u00e7in boyunlar\u0131n\u0131 kuma\u015f par\u00e7alar\u0131yla sarm\u0131\u015flard\u0131.<\/p>\n

Ava \u00e7\u0131kan, tarlada \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan, ovalarda ve y\u00fckseklerde sava\u015fan erkeklerin k\u0131yafeti-nin hi\u00e7 ayr\u0131lmayan bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olmu\u015ftur boyunba\u011f\u0131. Boyunba\u011f\u0131 bir giysidir; erkek giysilerinden biri. \u0130\u015flevseldir. So\u011fuktan ve s\u0131caktan, terden kirden korur. Ama kravat bir giysi de\u011fil, bir g\u00f6steri\u015ftir. Do\u011fan\u0131n belki de en renksiz canl\u0131s\u0131 olan insan soyunun erke\u011finin kendini s\u00fcsleme arac\u0131. Erkekler boyunba\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bir giysi olarak kulland\u0131klar\u0131 zamanlarda da s\u00fcsleniyorlard\u0131 elbette; parlak ta\u015flarla s\u00fcslenmi\u015f, egemenliklerinin simgesi y\u00fcz\u00fckler tak\u0131yorlard\u0131. Boyunba\u011f\u0131n\u0131n i\u015flevselli\u011finden \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p erkeklerin aksesuvar\u0131 olmas\u0131 i\u00e7in modern d\u00fcnyan\u0131n kurulu\u015funu beklemek gerekti.<\/p>\n

Avrupa’n\u0131n, iz b\u0131rakan, ya\u015fam\u0131n bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olan her modas\u0131 gibi, bir bunal\u0131m d\u00f6neminden \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131n\u0131, rahatlamas\u0131n\u0131 beklemek gerekti. Avrupa tarih\u0131nde Otuz Y\u0131l Sava\u015flar\u0131 diye bilinen d\u00f6nemin biti\u015fi insanlar i\u00e7in bir karabasandan uyanmak, ya\u015fam\u0131n zevklerini yeniden tadabilmek, yeni modalar yaratmak, soka\u011fa \u00e7\u0131kmak, e\u011flenmek, s\u00fcslen-ek demekti. \u0130\u015fte Avrupa, o y\u0131llarda, boyunba\u011flar\u0131n\u0131 neredeyse bir s\u00fcs haline getirmi\u015f olan H\u0131rvat askerleriyle<\/strong> tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131. R\u00fctbesiz askerlerin kaba kuma\u015flardan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f boyunba\u011flar\u0131, subaylarda neredeyse bir r\u00fctbe g\u00f6stergesine d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor, ipek ve muslin gibi g\u00f6steri\u015fli, pahal\u0131 kuma\u015flardan dokunuyordu.<\/p>\n

H\u0131rvat askerlerinin kravat\u0131<\/strong>, askeri bir giysinin g\u00fczelle\u015ftirilmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131lm\u0131\u015f halinden ba\u015fka bir \u015fey de\u011fildi. Bir asker i\u00e7in ya\u015famsal zorunluluk olan k\u0131l\u0131c\u0131n, me\u00e7in, parlak ta\u015flarla, p\u00fcsk\u00fcllerle s\u00fcslenerek ta\u015f\u0131nmas\u0131 gibiydi. Ama H\u0131rvat subaylar\u0131n boyunba\u011flar\u0131 \u00e7ok g\u00f6steri\u015fliydi. \u015eimdi kravat dedi\u011fimiz o vazge\u00e7\u0131lmez aksesuvar\u0131n bir moda, bir top-lumsal stat\u00fc g\u00f6stergesi, bir egemenlik simgesi olarak Avrupa’ya yay\u0131lmaya ba\u015flamas\u0131, i\u015fte paral\u0131 H\u0131rvat askerlerinden olu\u015fan bir alay\u0131n takt\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu boyunba\u011f\u0131ndan do\u011fup geli\u015fmi\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

1635’te, Otuz Y\u0131l Sava\u015flar\u0131’na paral\u0131 asker olarak kat\u0131lan H\u0131rvat Alay\u0131 Fransa’ya gelir. H\u0131rvat Alay\u0131’n\u0131n askerleri, b\u00fct\u00fcn boynu \u00e7epe\u00e7evre dolad\u0131ktan sonra p\u00fcsk\u00fcller halinde a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 sal\u0131nan ya da u\u00e7lar\u0131 bir rozetle b\u0131rle\u015ftirilmi\u015f boyunba\u011flar\u0131 tak\u0131yorlard\u0131. Zaman\u0131n kral\u0131 XIV. Louis’nin, giyim ku\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcslemeye, kuyru\u011funu a\u00e7m\u0131\u015f bir tavus ku\u015fu gibi dola\u015fmaya pek merakl\u0131 oldu\u011fu s\u00f6yleniyor. Bu tutkusunun, hem H\u0131rvat Alay\u0131’n\u0131 hem de H\u0131rvat askerlerinin boyunba\u011flar\u0131n\u0131 Frans\u0131z Monar\u015fisi’nin simgesi haline getirmesine neden oldu\u011fu belirtiliyor. Zaman\u0131n sayg\u0131n erkekleri, yani soylular ve askerler, daha o zamandan asl\u0131nda bug\u00fcn takt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z kravatlar\u0131n atalar\u0131ndan olan H\u0131rvat boyunba\u011f\u0131n\u0131 boyunlar\u0131na dolar olmu\u015flard\u0131.<\/p>\n

Frans\u0131zcada H\u0131rvat, “Croater” olarak s\u00f6yleniyor ve iddia ediliyor ki kravat kelimesi, yani Frans\u0131zcas\u0131yla “cravate”, H\u0131rvat’\u0131n yanl\u0131\u015f s\u00f6ylenmesinden \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f. Yani kravat H\u0131rvat demek. Ama \u015f\u00fcpheli tabii; \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc itiraz edenler de var. Bug\u00fcn S\u0131rp-H\u0131rvat\u00e7a’cla kravat\u0131n iki kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 bulunuyor: “kravata” ve “masna”. Kimi ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131lar, “cravate” kelimesinin Fransa’ya giden H\u0131rvat alay\u0131ndan \u00f6nce de kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 iddia ediyorlar. Fransa’da daha 14. y\u00fczy\u0131lda, yani H\u0131rvat askerleri boyunba\u011flanyla Paris sokaklar\u0131nda arz-\u0131 endam etmeden \u00fc\u00e7 y\u00fcz y\u0131l kadar \u00f6nce `cravate” kelimes\u0131nin par\u015f\u00f6menden yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f \u015ferit ve bez par\u00e7as\u0131 anlam\u0131na geldi\u011fini s\u00f6yl\u00fcyorlar. Bu ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131lara g\u00f6re “cravate” yani kravat, \u015ferit halinde bez par\u00e7as\u0131 demek; yani boyna dolamaya \u00e7ok uygun.<\/p>\n

Yine s\u00f6ylenenlere bak\u0131l\u0131rsa, daha 1590’da, yani H\u0131rvatlar\u0131n boyunba\u011f\u0131ndan \u00f6nce, \u0130talyancada, “cravata” diye bir kelime var. Fular, atk\u0131 ve boyunba\u011f\u0131 anlam\u0131nda kullan\u0131l\u0131yor. Ama Romal\u0131lar boyunba\u011f\u0131na, atk\u0131ya, fulara “focale” di-yorlard\u0131; kravata hi\u00e7 benzemiyordu. H\u0131rvatlar k\u00fclt\u00fcrel olarak \u00f6nce Roma’ya, sonra Bat\u0131 Roma’ya yak\u0131n olmu\u015flard\u0131.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kravat\u0131 kim buldu, Kravat\u0131 kim icat etti. Kravat, Papyon Kravat erkeklerin 350 y\u0131ll\u0131k, hatta kimi iddialara g\u00f6re 3.500 y\u0131ll\u0131k rakipsiz aksesuvar\u0131. \u0130nsanlar, \u00e7ok uzun zamanlardan beri, so\u011fuktan, kirden, terden korunmak…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[16],"tags":[1874],"class_list":["post-3205","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-moda","tag-kravat"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3205"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3205"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3205\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4583,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3205\/revisions\/4583"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3205"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3205"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3205"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}