{"id":333,"date":"2015-03-15T01:49:18","date_gmt":"2015-03-14T23:49:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/?p=333"},"modified":"2018-03-13T16:37:44","modified_gmt":"2018-03-13T14:37:44","slug":"sutyeni-kim-buldu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/?p=333","title":{"rendered":"S\u00fctyeni kim buldu"},"content":{"rendered":"

S\u00fctyeni kim icat etti?<\/strong><\/h2>\n

En eski s\u00fctyen\u00a0giymi\u015f bir kad\u0131n fig\u00fcr\u00fc, M.S. 3. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan kalma bir Sicilya mozai\u011finde g\u00f6r\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f olsa da, ge\u00e7mi\u015f d\u00f6nemlerde, \u00f6zellikle belin \u00fcst k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 kavrayan i\u00e7 \u00e7ama\u015f\u0131rlar\u0131, genellikle \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck bir alan\u0131 kaplar ve v\u00fccudu da s\u0131ms\u0131k\u0131 sarard\u0131. Bunlar, 19. yy’\u0131n sonlar\u0131nda yerlerini korselere b\u0131rakt\u0131lar.<\/p>\n

Antik Yunanistan’da kad\u0131nlar ilk s\u00fctyen olarak, g\u00f6\u011f\u00fcslerinin \u00fczerinden bir y\u00fcn veya keten bezler sard\u0131\u011f\u0131na dair kan\u0131rlar bulunmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n

Caresse Crosby<\/strong><\/h3>\n

\"Caresse<\/p>\n

Her \u015fey\u00a0Caresse Crosby<\/strong> (Mary Phelps jacobs olarak da bilinir)’un 1913’te yeni ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 elbiseyle korsesi uymad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in Frans\u0131z hizmet\u00e7isi Marie ile dikti\u011fi ilk s\u00fctyenle<\/strong> ba\u015flad\u0131. Crosby<\/strong> birka\u00e7 arkada\u015f\u0131na yeni icad\u0131ndan\u00a0hediye etmi\u015fti ki, ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir mektupla kendisinden patent hakk\u0131 istendi. Kas\u0131m 1914’te patent alan Crosby<\/strong> elde birka\u00e7 y\u00fcz s\u00fctyen \u00fcretti. Pazarlama sorunlar\u0131n\u0131 a\u015famayan Jacobs patentini 1.500 dolara Warner Karde\u015fler Korse \u015eirketine satt\u0131.<\/p>\n

Korseler 16. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ikinci yar\u0131s\u0131ndan itibaren Avrupa kad\u0131n\u0131n\u0131n g\u00fcndelik giysisi olmu\u015ftu. 18. y\u00fczv\u0131ldan itibaren darla\u015fmaya ba\u015flayan kad\u0131n elbiseleriyle birlikte giyilmeye ba\u015flanan korseler 18. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n sonlar\u0131nda ince uzun, dar belli, bedeni saran y\u00fcnl\u00fc, pamuklu elbiselerle bir d\u00f6nem terk edilse de, j\u00fcponlar, b\u00fczg\u00fcl\u00fc etekler ve karn\u0131 ve mideyi saran korseler 19. y\u00fczy\u0131lda tekrar kullan\u0131ma girdi. Bu donemde ilk kez memeleri altan iten veya bast\u0131ran korseler yerine \u00fcst k\u0131sm\u0131 \u00e7anak bi\u00e7iminde ta\u015f\u0131y\u0131c\u0131 korselerin \u00fcretimi ba\u015flad\u0131. Asl\u0131nda bu d\u00f6nemde Fransa’da da, ABD’de de korsenin ayr\u0131 bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olarak \u00e7e\u015fitli s\u00fctyen bi\u00e7imleri geli\u015ftirilmi\u015fti. ABD’de 18401ardan beri \u00e7e\u015fidi patentler al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f,<\/p>\n

Fransa’da korse yap\u0131mc\u0131s\u0131 Herminie Cadolle<\/strong> 1898’de bug\u00fcnk\u00fc bi\u00e7imin aras\u0131 olan s\u00fctyeni \u00fcretmi\u015fti. Frans\u0131zcada 1904’te ilk kez kullan\u0131lan “soutien-gorgen” s\u00f6zc\u00fc\u011f\u00fc de tutmak, destek olmak, ta\u015f\u0131mak anlam\u0131nda “sustinere” s\u00f6zc\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnden t\u00fcretilmi\u015fti. Kad\u0131n \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck hareketlerinin geli\u015fimi, sa\u011fl\u0131k endi\u015felerinin giyimde dikkate al\u0131nmaya ba\u015flamas\u0131 ve Birinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131’nda kad\u0131nlar\u0131n \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmak zorunda kalmas\u0131yla, korse ortadan kalkmaya ba\u015flarken, korseden ayr\u0131, daha hafif ve pratik \u00fcstl\u00fckler \u00fcretilir olmu\u015ftu.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

1920’lerden itibaren kadim sava\u015f d\u00f6neminin erkek \u00e7ocuk g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fcnden \u00e7\u0131karan, g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fc belirginle\u015ftirip beli darla\u015ft\u0131ran giyim moda oldu. Bu tarzla birlikte s\u00fctyen, kad\u0131nlar\u0131n modadan etkilenmeyen temel giyimi olacak kadar yayg\u0131nla\u015ft\u0131. 1920’lerde elastik kuma\u015flar\u0131n kullan\u0131m\u0131, 1928’de ilk fabrikasyon \u00fcretim ve 1930’larda ask\u0131s\u0131z s\u00fctyenler ve standart \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcler ba\u015flad\u0131. 1950’ler\u0131n Hollywood filmleri s\u00fctyenlerin d\u00fcnyaya yay\u0131lmas\u0131nda etkili oldu. Madonna’n\u0131n b\u00fcstiyer modas\u0131nda ne kadar etkin oldu\u011funu an\u0131msayanlar, s\u00fctyenin yay\u0131lmas\u0131nda Hollywood y\u0131ld\u0131zlar\u0131n\u0131n etkisini teslim edeceklerdir. 1968 \u00f6\u011frenci hareketi s\u0131ras\u0131nda s\u00fctyenler yak\u0131lsa da, s\u00fctyen \u00fcreticisi, zaman benden yana, diyordu.<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrkiye’ye s\u00fctyenler 1960’l\u0131 y\u0131llardan itibaren Avrupa da \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan i\u015f\u00e7iler taraf\u0131ndan getirildi ve \u00f6nce \u0130stanbul ve Ankara’daki Amerikan pazarlar\u0131nda sat\u0131ld\u0131. \u0130thali yasak oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in s\u00fctyenler \u00fclkeye ka\u00e7ak sokuluyordu. Eski cumhurba\u015fkanlar\u0131ndan birinin devlet memuruyken bir g\u00f6revle gitti\u011fi Avrupa’dan d\u00f6nerken e\u015fine ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00e7ama\u015f\u0131rlar\u0131 g\u00fcmr\u00fckten ge\u00e7irebilmek i\u00e7in, i\u00e7ine giydi\u011fi bilinmektedir. \u0130lk Alman \u00fcr\u00fcnlerinden sonra 1970’li y\u0131llarda Amerikan patentiyle \u00fcretim ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f, 1979-80’de “\u00e7eyizlik s\u00fctyen” \u00fcretimine giri\u015filmi\u015ftir. S\u00fctyen ithalat\u0131\u00a0ise 1980’den sonra ba\u015flad\u0131. 1989’da ithalat rejimi d\u00fczenlemeleri s\u0131ras\u0131nda bayan i\u00e7 giyiminde g\u00fcmr\u00fck oranlar\u0131 y\u00fczde 20’den y\u00fczde 10’a d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc ve i\u00e7 giyim sanayii geli\u015ftik\u00e7e s\u00fctyen \u00fcretimi de geli\u015fip \u00e7e\u015fitlendi. The S\u00fctyen (1993) kitab\u0131n\u0131n yazar\u0131 C\u00fcneyt Ayral, yine de s\u00fctyen kullan\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n gen\u00e7 n\u00fcfusla birlikte artt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6ylemektedir.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

S\u00fctyeni kim icat etti? En eski s\u00fctyen\u00a0giymi\u015f bir kad\u0131n fig\u00fcr\u00fc, M.S. 3. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan kalma bir Sicilya mozai\u011finde g\u00f6r\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f olsa da, ge\u00e7mi\u015f d\u00f6nemlerde, \u00f6zellikle belin \u00fcst k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 kavrayan i\u00e7 \u00e7ama\u015f\u0131rlar\u0131, genellikle…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":10987,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[16],"tags":[1865,237],"class_list":["post-333","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-moda","tag-mary-phelps-jacobs","tag-sutyen"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/333"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=333"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/333\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11415,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/333\/revisions\/11415"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/10987"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=333"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=333"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=333"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}