{"id":761,"date":"2015-03-15T02:29:31","date_gmt":"2015-03-15T00:29:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/?p=761"},"modified":"2018-02-28T01:49:09","modified_gmt":"2018-02-27T23:49:09","slug":"kot-pantolon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/?p=761","title":{"rendered":"Kot Pantolonu kim buldu"},"content":{"rendered":"

Jean pantolonu kim buldu, kot pantolonu kim icat etti<\/strong>.<\/h2>\n

1850’lerde “Alt\u0131na H\u00fccum” d\u00f6neminde San Francisco’ya gelen terzi Levi Strauss<\/strong> \u00e7ad\u0131r ve araba \u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fc ticareti yap\u0131yordu. O s\u0131rada kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kan bir madenci, normal pantolonlar\u0131n, madenlerde \u00e7abuk eskiyip y\u0131rt\u0131ld\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yleyince, madencilerin ihtiyac\u0131n\u0131 anlayan Strauss\u00a0elindeki kal\u0131n kuma\u015ftan dayan\u0131kl\u0131 pantolonlar dikmeye karar verdi.\u00a0\u00c7ad\u0131r bezinden dikti\u011fi tulum \u00e7ok ra\u011fbet g\u00f6rd\u00fc. Bu ilk kot pantolonla<\/strong>r, d\u00fczinesi 13.5 dolardan sat\u0131\u015fa \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131ld\u0131.<\/p>\n

1860’larda, Fransa’da Nimes’de \u00fcretilen daha yumu\u015fak bir bez getirtti. Avrupa’da “serge de Nimes” olarak bilinen bu kuma\u015f Amerika’da “dimes” ad\u0131yla jean \u00fcretilen kuma\u015f\u0131n ad\u0131 oldu. Atmayan rengiyle kovboylar\u0131 tatmin eden kuma\u015ftan, madenciler cepleri y\u0131rt\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in \u015fikayet\u00e7i oldular. Cep a\u011f\u0131zlar\u0131na konulan bak\u0131r \u00e7ivilerle bu sorun \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcld\u00fc.<\/p>\n

1935’te Vogue dergisinde “Bat\u0131 (Western) \u015e\u0131kl\u0131\u011f\u0131” ad\u0131 alt\u0131nda reklam\u0131n\u0131n yap\u0131lmas\u0131yla moda oldu. Ama 1980’lerde eri\u015fti\u011fi moda \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve pahal\u0131 fiyatlar\u0131 bu i\u015f\u00e7i elbisesini \u00fcretenlerin de giyenlerin de akl\u0131na gelmezdi.\u00a0Blue Jean \u0130talya’n\u0131n Cenova kentinde \u00fcretilen dayan\u0131kl\u0131 i\u015f kuma\u015f\u0131na Frans\u0131z dokumac\u0131lar \u015fehrin ad\u0131ndan dolay\u0131 “Genes” ad\u0131n\u0131 vermi\u015flerdi, jean ad\u0131 buradan geliyor.<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrkiye’de 1955’te yerli kot, ince \u00e7ad\u0131r bezinden jean yap\u0131lmaya ba\u015fland\u0131. 1961’de yerli kotlar 25 liraya sat\u0131l\u0131rken, Amerikan mallar\u0131 100-150 liraya al\u0131c\u0131 buluyordu. 1960’lardan sonra Amerikal\u0131 askerler\u0131n say\u0131s\u0131 art\u0131nca jean piyasas\u0131 da geni\u015fledi. Amerikal\u0131 askerlerin piyeksten al\u0131p T\u00fcrklere satt\u0131klar\u0131 e\u015fyayla a\u00e7\u0131lan Amerikan ma\u011fazalar\u0131, Avrupa’ya giden i\u015f\u00e7i ve g\u00f6revlilerin permilerini esnafa devretmeleriyle zenginle\u015fti, ka\u00e7ak\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n ba\u015flamas\u0131yla Amerikan pazarlar\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. Bu s\u00fcrecin ba\u015flamas\u0131nda jean, g\u00f6mlek, sak\u0131z gibi basit e\u015fya rol oynam\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n

1970’lerde Amerika d\u00fc\u015fman\u0131 solcular\u0131n yayg\u0131n giysisi haline geldi. Bu y\u0131llarda sa\u011fc\u0131 gen\u00e7ler kuma\u015f pantolonlar\u0131, solcular kotlar\u0131yla ay\u0131rt edilir oldular ve kot giydikleri i\u00e7in belirli fak\u00fcltelerin kantinlerinde dayak yiyenler oldu. \u00d6nce yaln\u0131zca gen\u00e7lerin giyebildi\u011fi kotlar gittik\u00e7e yayg\u0131nla\u015ft\u0131, ya\u015f ve toplumsal stat\u00fc tan\u0131madan herkesin giyebildi\u011fi bir t\u00fcr haline geldi, \u00e7e\u015fitlendi ve “marka”larla kendi i\u00e7inde bir modas\u0131 do\u011fdu. Kuma\u015f\u0131 T\u00fcrkiye’den gidiyor, marka etiketi Bat\u0131’dan geliyor, yerlisi beyazlam\u0131yor derken, T\u00fcrk jean \u00fcreticileri sonunda ger\u00e7ekten pazara girdiler.<\/p>\n

Bu arada “jean”in Anadolu kuma\u015fi oldu\u011funu ileri s\u00fcrenler de oldu. Ger\u00e7ekte Amerika’da “dimes” olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan kuma\u015f, Anadolu’da minder, d\u00f6\u015fek y\u00fcz\u00fc kuma\u015f\u0131 olarak 15. y\u00fczy\u0131l metinlerinde “dimi” bi\u00e7iminde ge\u00e7er.<\/p>\n

Halk\u0131m\u0131z tam kot pantolonu \u015falvar gibi giymeyi becermi\u015fken, 19801i y\u0131llarda, pahaland\u0131k\u00e7a ra\u011fbet artan modalardan olmak \u00fczere, Umberto Eco’yu da isyan ettiren “k\u0131\u00e7a ka\u00e7an” Jean moda olmu\u015ftu. Bug\u00fcn Tahran pazar\u0131nda kot “\u015falvar-\u0131 T\u00fcrk?” olarak sat\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Jean pantolonu kim buldu, kot pantolonu kim icat etti. 1850’lerde “Alt\u0131na H\u00fccum” d\u00f6neminde San Francisco’ya gelen terzi Levi Strauss \u00e7ad\u0131r ve araba \u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fc ticareti yap\u0131yordu. O s\u0131rada kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kan bir…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":10328,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[16],"tags":[1082,1866,1081,418,1867,1868,1083],"class_list":["post-761","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-moda","tag-jean","tag-jean-pantolon","tag-kot","tag-kot-pantolon","tag-levi-strauss","tag-levis","tag-pantolon"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/761"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=761"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/761\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10329,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/761\/revisions\/10329"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/10328"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=761"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=761"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ilkkimbuldu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=761"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}